Showing posts with label image stabilization. Show all posts
Showing posts with label image stabilization. Show all posts

Sigma 100-300mm f/4 EX DG IF HSM APO Fast Aperture Telephoto Zoom Lens for Sigma SLR Cameras Review

Sigma 100-300mm f/4 EX DG IF HSM APO Fast Aperture Telephoto Zoom Lens for Sigma SLR Cameras
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I bought this lens to use with my Canon 30D for high school sports (soccer, football, baseball, etc). I already had the Sigma APO 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras and needed more focal length. Like the 70-200 F/2.8, this lens is big, heavy, and built like a tank. The bare lens is about an inch longer than the 70-200, but the 100-300's hood is longer than the 70-200's hood.
The zoom and focus rings are wide and move smoothly with just the right amount of resistance. This lens is sharp wide open. At the overlapping focal lengths, the 70-200 at F/4 is just barely sharper than this lens at F/4 (wide open). At 200mm, this lens is actually sharper (200mm is this lens's sweet spot.) At 300mm, the lens is still sharp wide open, but I like to stop down to F/4.5 just to keep things super-sharp. Up to 250mm, I would not hesitate to use it wide open.
This Sigma lens has HSM which means the focus is fast and quiet. The lens focuses a little slower than the 70-200 F/2.8, but I've found that the 30D is more of a limiting factor in focus speed than the lens is. Servo tracking is very good with this lens, the only time it can't keep up is when track runners are sprinting straight at me (although again, I think the body is the limiting factor here.) For almost every other situation, the focus will definitely keep up.
All in all, this is not an indoor lens by any means, but as an outdoor sports (or wildlife/nature) lens, it is awesome.

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This telephoto zoom lens provides a large F4 aperture at all focal lengths. With minimal light-fall-off, superior peripheral brightness is ensured. It's the ideal lens for digital SLR cameras.The new multi layer lens coating and lens design reduce flare and ghost, which is a common problem with digital cameras and also creates an optimum color balance through the entire zoom range.This lens uses two pieces of SLD glass elements in the front lens group and another two in the rear group for excellent correction of chromatic aberration. High optic performance is demonstrated throughout the entire zoom range.This lens incorporates an internal focusing system, which eliminates front lens rotation, allowing the use of a Petal-type Hood and more convenient to use of circular polarizing filter. Since focusing and zooming do not change its overall length, this lens is easy to hold and use.The use of an Apochromatic design and 4 SLD (The Special Low Dispersion) glass elements (two SLD glass elements are utilized in the front lens group and two in the rear group) provide for full correction of chromatic aberration and a high level of optical performance.The DG designation applied to certain newer Sigma lenses (mostly wide-angle and wide zoom type lenses) indicates that the lens is especially suited for use with digital SLR cameras. The DG lenses feature improved (more even) light distribution from image center to edge, especially at maximum aperture, compared to conventional fast wide-angle lenses. This is important in digital photography, but is also useful in 35mm photography, especially when slide film is used. Also, the shorter focal lengths are desirable, because most digital SLR cameras have image sensors whose dimensions are considerably smaller than a 35mm negative (usually by a factor of 1.3X to 1.7X), making the lens' angle of view equivalent to that of a longer lens on a 35mm camera.

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Sony Alpha DSLRA350X 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization with DT 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 & DT 55-200mm f/4-5.6 Zoom Lenses Review

Sony Alpha DSLRA350X 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization with DT 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 and DT 55-200mm f/4-5.6 Zoom Lenses
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This camera is really unbelievable for the price. If we're talking about the camera body (with no lens), I prefer it over the Canon Rebel XSi anyday (and I've used both). The problem for Sony is that their lens is sooooo crappy that the image quality goes straight down the toilet, and Canons lenses are for the most part very sharp and colorful.
The solution? Minolta lenses. I got my camera in the mail this morning and have played with it all day. From the second I unpacked the lens I was disappointed- even before I put it on the camera. It has an extremely cheap and plasticy feel, probably because it is cheap and made of only plastic. I'm actually pretty sure there's not a single piece of glass in the lens (which means, for those of you are new to this, that it sucks). I put it on and sure enough the results were not pretty. Don't run off to Canon's page so quickly, though- remember that this IS a 5 star review.
What makes up for sony's crappy crappy lens is the fact that you can use any Minolta lens from the past 20 years. In anticipation of purchasing this camera I brought 2 Minolta lenses from a garage sale a few weeks ago for a hundred bucks, and when I put them on the camera it was like magic. The autofocus still works in an instant, and the sharpness and color combined with Sony's 14megapixel sensor have left this former film-snob utterly impressed.
So my advice to advanced amateur photographers is to buy this camera. But just the body only. Save the hundred bucks to buy yourself a Minolta lens (or two). I thought I'd throw in the extra hundred bucks with this cam just to have an extra lens for my collection, and it was absolutely not worth it. I don't even know if I'll mount it onto my camera ever again. Seriously- It's a big plastic turd. I wouldn't buy it again if it was 20 bucks.
Also- I learned the complete menu for this camera in less than a day. The only negative things about this camera (except for the crappy turd plastico lens) are that it's not a full frame sensor (look it up, and then decide if you really want to spend and extra 1300 dollars to get a full frame sensor DSLR), and that there's a really dumb and pointless digital zoom button that is a total tragic use of space. I could think of ten more used/usable functions that could have gone there instead.
Really though, I couldn't be happier with this camera.

Click Here to see more reviews about: Sony Alpha DSLRA350X 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera with Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization with DT 18-70mm f/3.5-5.6 & DT 55-200mm f/4-5.6 Zoom Lenses

With incredible 14.2 MP detail, Sony¿s ¿ (alpha) DSLR-A350 raises the standard of excellence for step-up digital photographers shooting both family memories and fine-art photos. Live Preview in a large 2.7¿ LCD screen links you and your subject -- and you¿ll have special features like super-quick AF response, continuous shooting at 2 fps while you see your subject in the viewfinder, Creative Style modes for quick recall of custom settings, and in-camera Super SteadyShot image stabilization that reduces blur with every Sony, Carl Zeiss and legacy Minolta a-mount lens.

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Olympus Evolt E520 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 and 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 ED Zuiko Lenses Review

Olympus Evolt E520 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 and 40-150mm f/4.0-5.6 ED Zuiko Lenses
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The E-520 is my very first DSLR and I have had it now since April '09 (the Easter Bunny brought it :-) and I can't say enough good things about this camera or this combo.
The camera body is lightweight enough to carry all day without getting tired but sturdy enough to not feel "cheap". The two kit lenses cover most of the distances the average user will want or need, and again neither one is a back-breaker. I use the 40-150mm when I am going to spend a day at the zoo to bring the animals closer to me (since they won't let me get closer to them :-).
One really nifty feature that the camera offers is the ability to use Live View Boost to focus and frame pictures with an infrared filter in place on the front of the lens and to actually see what the camera will record. Pretty cool.
The controls are easy to use and I think the only challenge I have encountered where they are concerned is not in using them but in remembering what to use when and to remember what menu it is under. Fortunately, most of the things you will need most often (wb, AF, Flash, ISO, etc.) also have dedicated buttons easy to find right there on the camera body. You can also set your own custom profile combos to allow you to quickly switch from one set up to another without having to remember what you did the last time that you liked.
The 20 scene modes make life very easy especially when you are just starting out or if you don't want to think and just want to shoot. And the ability (with the optional waterproof housing and light) to shoot underwater would be a really cool thing to do.
Color is great, clarity is great, the ability to remotely control the FL-36R or FL-50R flash units without having to have them attached to the camera by wires of any kind is great too.
A word about the proprietary XD card (the camera supports three different recording formats, CF, XD and Microdrive (But who uses those really?)) you can have the card in the camera in addition to the CF card and I would recommend having one just for the panoramic assist option which is only available if you use the XD card. The panoramic assist supports horizontal and vertical pans and the stitching software is built into the Olympus Master software that comes standard with the camera.
The only down side to having this camera is that you may find it difficult to find all the different lenses available at your local camera store (but there is always Amazon) as Nikon and Cannon have much better marketing. Oh, and one more word about lenses, you can get adapters which will allow you to use not only Olympus OM mount lenses from your SLR but also Pentax, Minolta, Nikon, Cannon, Miyama, and all the rest. Olympus only makes the OM mount adapter but you can find all the others aftermarket. You will need to be able to manually focus and set the f-stop on the lens itself as those features won't be supported through the adapters but it sure opens up options.

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Olympus EVOLT E-520 Digital SLR Camera 10 Megapixel - 3x/3.8x Optical Zoom - 2.70

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Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZR1 12.1MP Digital Camera with 8x POWER Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 2.7 inch LCD (Silver) Review

Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZR1 12.1MP Digital Camera with 8x POWER Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 2.7 inch LCD (Silver)
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I've purchased my Panasonic DMC-ZR1 still camera via Amazon just a few days ago because I needed an ultra-compact backup for may Nikon D90. When you travel there might be some situations when you are not in the mood or just can not use your DSLR. So I was looking for a small camera, which could produce high quality outdoor pictures and HD video.

I'm an advanced amateur photographer. I take pictures mostly on weekends and vacations when I prefer to have in my pocket a small but sophisticated camera which I can forget about during the day but which can take great shots when it is needed. That is why my best cameras were Sony DSC-T1, T30, and recently - T100. The latter one was nominated as the best ultra-compact in 2007, and it indeed was. But time flies and a new 16:9 wide format came to still cameras and video, which T100 did not support. So about a year ago I purchased Panasonic DMC-TZ5 and a little bit later - FZ18. I bought FZ18 because of its incredibly bright 18x super zoom lens. I believe that each of above mentioned cameras was an absolute champion in their class at that time, but now I wanted something almost as good as that but in a small package.

After doing a lot of research on Amazon.com and dpreview I've chosen ZR1. My first impression - it's a very good camera. I like a solid build quality of its metall body. There are no flimsy elements or grinding sounds while zooming or focussing. Zoom itself is very smooth both optically and mechanically. While taking stills it is very fast, however it has some inertia. While shooting video it's relatively slow, which allowes autofocus to do its job well.

What I like very much about my Sony T100 - when shooting video of a moving subject the autofocus keeps it in focus all the time by doing a very small adjustments which you can hardly admit. Many other P&S cameras either do not allow zooming on video or hunting focus most of the time. That was the issue with the original TZ5, which was significantly improved in software update ver. 1.2. From my prospective the new ZR1 has as the same great autofocus mechanism as my T100 - when you follow a moving subject or apply zoom ZR1 keeps it in focus nicely (and without producing any noticeable sound). But when you do a panorama without a central moving object - do it slowly to allow the camera to decide, which next part of your picture should be in focus. On still pictures the autofocus is very quick and precise.

The 8x zoom Leica lens is just great: very good colors fidelity, contrast, and color saturation in the entire zoom range from wide to tele. The wide 25mm (equivalent) is great, but it comes at some cost: for the distant subjects the barrel distortions and the decrease of sharpness of the peripheral areas are pretty visible, however when you shoot from a relatively close distance around 1.5-3 m it seems some special processing is involved because there is almost no any visible barrel distortions or loss of sharpness. I have to admit all three my Panasonic cameras behave the same way but for ZR1 it's more noticable because of its incredibly wide 25mm lens. If you apply a little bit zoom the resolution becomes pretty even accross the picture and with no barrel distortions. I did not perform any special stress testing but on all the pictures I've got I did not see any chromatic aberrations or vignetting in the entire zoom range. Physically you can zoom in the only 8x range but it is possible to increase it up to 15.6x for the lower 3MP picture resolution. Normally you might want that if you're taking pictures of some specific subjects like kids, birds, or animals. Just imagine - having 400mm equivalent telephoto lens in your pocket - it's just amazing, and IMHO those 3MP shots look pretty good on my 24" monitor (if you do not crop them more).

A new ZR1 has the impressive 12MP comparing to 9MP of TZ5 but on the same sensor size, and as a result - more noise. On the [...]site you could read that Panasonic did a great job by separating the entire noise into its low-frequency and high-frequency wavebands and also splitting the color and luminance noise and handling them separately. My comparative edge-to-edge testing of both ZR1 and TZ5 shots showed that ZR1 does exactly what was stated and does it pretty good. On the ZR1 picturese taken at dim light conditions the noise was remarkable less than on the TZ5's ones! However at a very-very dark conditions when the pictures become very grainy you can see that the level of noise from ZR1 is somewhat bigger, than from TZ5. Another good news is that the white balance in ZR1 is almost perfect: the night pictures taken by TZ5 and FZ18 were either colored red or had some other weird colors while ZR1 in alomst dark situations showed as the same correct white balance as if the pictures were taken at a day-light time.
If you're shooting on a bright sunny day your pictures might be too much contrasty and either shadow parts like trees can be darken to black or the blue sky or some other light areas might be completely washed out. The camera menu does not allow you to adjust the contrast directly but you can set an Intelligent Exposure mode instead. Then it constantly analyzes the scene and if it has too much contrast the camera automatically applys either slower shutter speed or higher ISO and reduces the overal contrast. I found that on ZR1 that feature is not that good as on TZ5. Another way is to switch the mode dial to "MS" or "SCN" mode and select "High Dynamic" scene. In that case camera unconditionally and remarkably decreases the overall contrast (more than in Intelligent mode) and adjusts the shutter speed or/and ISO the way that even dark areas are well exposed, and that really works well.

There are the two things which are still better on my T100 than on ZR1 or TZ5: the quality of the VGA video and the clarity of sound. However having the HD video mode you might not need VGA at all. The quality of HD video on ZR1 is as the same great as on TZ5 and the image stabilization is even slightly better. But for stills the image stabilization was much more improved, I guess more than the 2 times as they stated. On the maximum zoom in low light many of my TZ5 pictures were slightly smeared, while the ones taken by ZR1 at the same time were perfect.

I like the ZR1's menu and controls - they're similar to TZ5' and are very clear and intuitive. Plus there are some additional functions. It allows you to set some parameters manually, but do it only if you're very clear about what you're doing, otherwise let that sophisticated camera do it for you. For example: you might be taking a picture of a tree and the system sets the ISO=100 and shutter speed 1/20. But then you see a small squirell and apply the 15.6x zoom to have it big enough on your screen. As a result system might change ISO to 500 and shutter to 1/100. You might be thinking that the camera got crazy, but actually it detected that your hands are shaking too much for the big focal length you set and so the shutter speed needs to be much faster to prevent the shot to be blurred. It's intelligent mode is pretty good.

UPDATE: This ZR1 camera has an incredible display: it shows pictures at any angle and even in the direct sunlight. A while ago I was going on vacation to Cancun and I purchased a Kodak V1273 ultracompact camera because of its wide-screen stills and HD video. But when I tried to use it on the beach I was totally confused - nothing, absolutely nothing was visible on display on a sunny day! If I did not have my Sony T100 as a backup all my vacation would be completely spoiled. In the direct sunlight the image on the T100's display looks like a black-and-white reflection, but at least you can point and frame your shots and use the menu. ZR1 does even better - the picture in the direct sunlight has all the colors, just looks darker and not that contrast. On the TZ5's display if you slightly turn camera around the horizontal axis the brightness and contrast of the image is changing pretty much. On the ZR's one picture remains the same regardless of from what angle you are looking at it. It means you're not going to regret the display is not swivable as well as you will not miss the optical viewfinder because you can see the pictures even in the direct sunlight. Only one thing: it seems the palette of that display is a kind of limited and it might not show some subtle tints of colors, so don't judge colors until you see it on a good monitor.

UPDATE2: Recently I did some comparative testing of the picture quality of my ZR1 and TZ5. A side-by-side comparison has shown that the general resolution and sharpnes of the ZR1's pictures is remarkably higher than of TZ5's ones. From the detailed analysis I got an impression that around 20% of that improvement comes from higher sensor resolution (12MP verse 9MP), 30-40% because of the better noise reduction, and about 40-50% because of the stronger internal sharpening in ZR1 than that in TZ5. When I did some sharpening to my TZ5's photos using the Nero Photoshop the difference became less visible. For better understanding why the more sophisticated noise reduction might help pictures to look sharper you can think about it this way: as the same as contrast is a difference between light and dark areas, sharpness is a difference between plain areas and edges. The less a certain area has noise, the more it looks "plain", and so it more differentiates from edges making a sharper impression. Also because the original purpose of this purchase was to have a backup for my Nikon D90 I did some comparison of their HD video capabilities. Would you believe or not - ZR1 provided much better moving picture resolution than D90. Of course the ZR1's movies show some noise (as the same as any other compact P&S camera) while D90's ones don't. That noise is not...Read more›

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Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZR1 Point & Shoot Digital Camera - Silver 12.1 Megapixel - 16:9 - 8x Optical Zoom - 4x Digital Zoom - 2.70

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Tamron Autofocus 70-300mm f/4-5.6 LD 1:2 Macro Lens for Konica Minolta SLR Cameras Review

Tamron Autofocus 70-300mm f/4-5.6 LD 1:2 Macro Lens for Konica Minolta SLR Cameras
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I purchased Tamron AF 70-300mm LD lens for Canon over a month ago. The first roll of film was a bit of disappointing. I liked colors but some pictures lacked sharpness (fuzzy). After that I purchased introduction photography book published by Kodak and read it. Gained knowledge was invalueable. I used tripod and Kodak Gold 200 color print film. Pictures were developed on 5x7 photographs at York Photo Labs. All pictures of second roll turned out very nice and sharp (especially considering 200 film on 5x7 pictures). I even made picture of caterpillar in macro mode at 300 mm and f/8 and this turned out very nice as well. All pictures (including ones taken at focal length of 300 mm) turned out very nice. Ultra telephoto lens is demanding but wide-angle lens is forgiving. You have to consider it when you use telephoto lens. You need solid technique; otherwise, you might be disappointed if you take handheld pictures with lower shutter speeds. It is pretty hard to make sharp pictures even at 1/250 shutter speed and 200mm. Tripod works well though. The larger focal length the harder it gets. I would not feel comfortable with anything slower than 1/250s. Some people mentioned that f/8 gives better results. That is true pretty much for any lens. But at this aperture you need tripod when using ISO 100 films unless you are in sun. If you can't use tripod but you want to use this lens then you might use faster films (IS0 200 or ISO 400) to reduce camera shake. Build quality is good and great warranty gives you peace of mind. Customer service is quick too (don't worry my lens is not broken but I had some technical questions to Tamron). This lens is also sold as Nikon AF 70-300mm ED and users seem to enjoy it as well (even though they pay 100$ more). Focusing is kind of slow, especially in low-light conditions and at larger focal lengths (i.e. 300 mm). You can't blame lens for it because camera does focusing. At this low amount of light and narrow angle (7 degrees - camera gets not much lights through lens). It is not Tamron but nature of telephoto lens. This is why camera haunts in low-light conditions. Lens comes with lens hood (lens shade) so you don't have to buy one for this lens. Overall, I am very pleased with pictures and expect even better pictures on ISO 100 films and 4x6 prints. Use tripod as much as possible. Also cable release is recommended to reduce camera shake. Great lens for the money. Period.

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This is the definitive lightweight, compact telephoto macro zoom with a maximum magnification ratio of 1: 2 at the 300mm setting - ideal for shooting subjects that are difficult to approach such as sporting and theatrical events. The lens also features special effects such as the capability to provide beautifully blurred backgrounds to highlight the main subject in portraiture, or "compression effects" that make the most of the telephoto lens. By switching to macro mode, subjects as close as 0.95m can be shot within the focal range of 180-300mm, for true macro photography. The optical system incorporates a LD (Low Dispersion) lens, resulting in clear sharp images free of chromatic aberration.Type of zooming is rotation.

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Sigma 28-80mm F3.5-5.6 Aspherical Macro HF Lens for Minolta-AF Camera Review

Sigma 28-80mm F3.5-5.6 Aspherical Macro HF Lens for Minolta-AF Camera
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First, let me say this lens is one of my favorites. I own this lens for my Pentax PZ-1 and have read MANY reviews about it. The price is cheap. In fact, it's arguably the cheapest lenses in it's class. But don't mistake a cheap price as the sign of a bad lens. I use this lens for many occassions and at it almost always delivers GREAT pictures. Yes, it's not the single best lens in the world, but it is as good as many of the lenses I've used that are two or three times the price. Plus, if you break this one you can buy another without breaking your piggy bank ... or your credit card limit.
The two complaints most people make about this lens are, "It's a slow lens" and "It's almost impossible to focus manually." Let me put both those complaints to rest right now. First, when photographers refer to how "slow" a lens is, they don't mean how fast it can focus, they mean the F-stop setting. This lens is a F3.5-5.6. Granted, some expensive lenses at this focal length can go as low as F1.x, but most can't. And most experienced (and novice) photographers can use any lens that can go below F8. So, when people call this lens "slow," they should be talking about F-stops, not autofocus. I for one have found this lens to be more than fast enough for hand-held use. It's only been too slow once in about 1,000 shots.
Second, the focusing ring on this puppy is short. That means it's hard to focus manually. Still, that's to be expected on a smaller, cheaper lens such as this. Although it's tough to focus manually, it's not impossible. I've used manual focus on this lens several times and got great results ... just move the ring SLOWLY and you will get great manual focus. Nevertheless, keep in mind this IS an autofocus lens ... most people won't focus the lens manually. And on that note, the autofocus is spectacular.
Add in the macro ability of this lens and you've got one heck of a package! Oh, and don't forget ... It's CHEAP! If you can only afford one lens for your next vacation, make it this lens ... and use the $100+ you saved to buy more goodies.

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CL) RE) 28-80MM F3.5-5.6 MIN ASP MAC

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Casio Exilim Pro EXP700 7MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Zoom Review

Casio Exilim Pro EXP700 7MP Digital Camera with 4x Optical Zoom
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I have owned 6 digital cameras (1 Kodak, 1 Casio, and 4 Canons) in the past, and this is the best yet. I had purchased a Canon SD500 last month but didn't think it lived up to its hype. I did extensive research and found this less popular camera. At first, I was reluctant because I had owned a Casio before (the Z40), and I thought the images it produced were subpar. But I read good reviews on the P700. I found a store that had a good return policy and decided to test it alongside the Canon SD500.
I performed a blind test on my friends. I used all auto settings, with no photo doctoring at all. The P700 had more accurate colors and didn't have the blinding flash of the SD500. However, the P700 had a bit more noise in dark areas. 6/10 people preferred the P700 pictures over the SD500. The P700 has much more manual control than the SD500, so when I took new pictures using the manual controls, the P700 blew the SD500 away. Needless to say, I decided to sell my SD500.
What I like most about this camera is the manual controls. There is an aperture priority mode and a shutter priority mode on top of the full manual mode. Other useful things I can control are sharpness, saturation, contrast, and flash intensity - things I haven't seen in the other 6 digital cameras I've owned. Of course, I can always adjust those in Photoshop, but it's just nice to have handy. Just a few more of the features I love already: AE (auto exposure) lock, auto bracketing, 25-shot stop action images, ability to shoot in TIFF and RAW modes (RAW mode is available through a hidden menu), autofocus area controls, metering modes, and the help icons.
It doesn't have the greatest movie mode, but making movies isn't the reason I bought a digital camera - I would've gotten a camcorder instead.
Many people think the design is ugly, but personally, I love the sturdy, industrial design. That was another reason I didn't like the Canon - because of its fragile body.
As for the size, the P700 is not a super-compact, pocket camera. However, it's still small enough to fit into my handbag. The larger size also reduces hand-shake, a problem I noticed with smaller cameras.
All in all, I believe that the P700 is a great camera for someone who takes casual snapshots but dabbles in serious photography as well. It is a great choice for those who want more than a regular point-and-shoot but doesn't need/cannot afford an SLR. I highly recommend this camera!

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The EX-P700 features a 4X optical zoom (coupled with 4X digital zoom), combined with a large 2.0-inch LCD screen, offering users even more performance from the same body size. With its amazing 7.2 million megapixel CCD and fast-response design, this high-end digital camera assures a new level of imaging capability. Its full array of functions and features, such as the Business Shot function that straightens distorted pictures automatically, also raise the bar one notch higher in terms of usability.Canon Lens (8 lenses in 7 groups, including aspherical lens) F2.8(W) to 4.0(T); f=7.1(W) to 28.4(T)mm (equivalent to approximately 33.0 to 132.0 mm when converted to 35mm film), lens barrier included Phase differential sensor AF/ Contrast type AF (selectable between spot, 7-point multi, free AF area switching, continuous AF); macro mode; infinity mode; manual focus /// Approximate Focus Range -Normal -1.3' to infinite; Macro -3.9x 19.7 Exposure Control - Metering -Multi-pattern by imaging element / Control -program; aperture; shutter speed; manual exposure; AE lock Self-timer -10 seconds or 2 seconds; Triple Self-timer; Remote control; 2 second remote control self timerBuilt-in Flash -Flash Modes -Auto, Flash On, Flash Off, Red Eye2 LCD Screen Weight -Approximately 7.88 oz (excluding batteries and accessories)

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Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Aspherical Large Aperture Standard Zoom Lens for Sigma SLR Cameras Review

Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Aspherical Large Aperture Standard Zoom Lens for Sigma SLR Cameras
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I have owned and used this lens professionally for over a year now and after a minor focus issue that was resolved very quickly by Sigma's excellent service department I have to say this is the sharpest 24-70 lens I have used. I also have experience with the canon 24-70L lens which retails for just over a grand and the Sigma is sharper throughout the whole range(even at 2.8). The only negative thing I have to say about this lens is the noisy autofocus (Canon's USM is much quieter). But it is still reasonably fast to AF. This is definately the best lens for the money in this zoom range and is without a doubt the best optically. Canon's build quality and weather sealing are definately superior to the Sigma so if that is an issue, you may want to go with the Canon.
-NB

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Large aperture zoom starting from 24mm and realizing a maximum aperture F-value of 2.8 As for the front element does not rotate at the time of focusing.

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Sigma 70-300mm F/4-5.6 DG OS SLD Super Multi-Layer Coated Telephoto Lens for Sigma AF Mount Digital SLR Cameras Review

Sigma 70-300mm F/4-5.6 DG OS SLD Super Multi-Layer Coated Telephoto Lens for Sigma AF Mount Digital SLR Cameras
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I have only had 2 days to play with this lens, but so far am impressed with it's performance. I bought this mainly for outdoor use as I have a Nikon 70-200 f2.8 VR lens for indoor shooting. I simply do not want that mammoth lens on my camera when hiking, etc., especially since fast aperture is not necessary in good light. This one looks like it will do nicely. Focus is pretty fast - hunts a little in lower light at telephoto, but that's pretty common for most lenses of this type. Image quality is very good so far. Some very minor fringing in a few of the shots (not an issue with JPEG's from my D90 because it automatically removes most CA). I'll shoot some RAW shots outdoors when I get a chance to see if it is anything to worry about, but so far it appears to be acceptable. Focus is extremely accurate - dead-on on every shot taken (no front focus issues that some Sigma lenses have). OS is also VERY impressive. I'd say really close to Nikon's best VRII lenses. I took a couple of 1/4 sec. shots handheld with only my elbows braced against my ribs, at full telephoto, and the shots were perfectly sharp. You can see the image start to float when the shutter is half-pressed, so you know the stabilizer is working. Lens mounts snugly onto the camera and has a good, sturdy metal mount like the better Nikon lenses have. Fits perfectly. I like the size and weight compared to the Nikon equivalent (it is somewhat more compact). The only drawback is that the lens is not internal focusing like the Nikon (which probably accounts for the compactness). This means that the lens hood must be a round one (not a petal hood, which I prefer) because the end of the lens rotates as it focuses. It also extends about 7/8 of an inch at closest focus, which makes the overall length pretty long at 300mm (about 8 inches without hood, around 10 with the hood attached). None of that really matters much to me, though. One thing that I liked about this one compared to the Nikon 70-300 VR was that the aperture starts at f4, not f4.5, so it's a bit faster than the Nikon. The shallow depth of field was surprising to me. Longer focal lengths tend to really amplify the effect at closer ranges, and that is very apparent with this one.
The best way to rate this lens would be to break down specific attributes, and then give a score (1 to 10) on that attribute, so here goes:
Image quality (so far): 9 (impressed with every one taken thus far - color, sharpness, etc. quite good)
Focus accuracy: 9 (low light the only issue)
Focus speed: 8 (could be a little better)
Focus noise: 7 (not as quiet to focus as Nikon AF lenses - even my huge 70-200 f2.8 VR lens is lots quieter)
Fit: 10
Finish quality: 7 (surface not as good looking or durable looking as Nikon, but not ugly either)
Optical Stabilization: 9.5
Size/weight: 9
Overall ease of use/functionality: 9
I will update with more information after using the lens more. I cannot give the lens 5 stars, although I believe it is not far from achieving that. I think most people will agree that this lens is worth the money spent and will do what it is intended to do, and do it well.
Update: Feb. 2010- Have taken a few more shots with this lens. All-in-all still very satisfied with it. The fringing noted earlier is there - a bit more than I first indicated. RAW shows slightly more than the JPEG's, but it is fairly easy to remove the majority of it in Lightroom. Some images look a bit soft. When I compare them to the 18-105 Nikon kit lens, I initially thought they were pretty comparable,but they are a tad bit softer when looked at closely. It is much softer than my 70-200 f2.8, even when that one is shot wide open - and the Sigma is FAR behind on anything stopped down to f4 or higher on the Nikon. However, I would expect nothing less from a lens that is over 5 times as expensive. Outdoor shots are very respectable from the Sigma - It is my recommendation that a person use this lens stopped down some outdoors, particularly at 200mm and above, as the fairly shallow depth of field when zoomed will render some subjects in front of the main subject out of focus, even on relatively distant shots. F8 to f11 fixes that most of the time. My initial rating of 4 stars still stands, as I feel that image quality is less than perfect, but as good as anyone should expect at this price level. The only individual rating that would change is the image quality that I rated a 9, is more like an 8 - still pretty good. Is is considerably better than a Nikon 55-200 VR that I sold recently - it was soft across the frame, with a very bad left side. Perhaps a bad copy? Anyway, the Sigma 70-300 OS is a lens I am proud to carry in my gear bag, and one that will work well for me for a long time.
Update 2: Mar. 2010 - Upon further inspection of the images, it appears that shots taken stopped down some are a fair bit sharper than when shot wide open. Stopped down shots look to be sharper than just about any of the Nikon 18-105 ones, but are softer than the Nikon when shot wide open. That being said, my recommendation in a sentence or two is: shoot this lens stopped down a bit and don't expect to use it in low light without flash or for indoor sports. The best shots will result from the lens set too slow to be of much use in those cases. If I have more to report, I will do so later.

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OS (Optical Stabilizer) For Sigma

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Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras Review

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras
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If you're looking at this lens, you're ready to spend some serious dollars. Is it worth it? Short answer, yes, but I'll elaborate.
I've shot with a variety of Nikon and Canon lenses for about 25 years. The 300 f/2.8L IS is without a doubt the sharpest lens I've ever had, and it is unbelievably consistent across every aperture. With the 1.4X Canon extender - other its becoming an f/4 lens - I could not see any appreciable change in its performance. Unbelievable.
I got my introduction to image stabilization on the 70-200 f/2.8L IS, and it is even more useful on the 300. I handheld consistently crisp shots at 1/60 and sometimes at 1/30. With my old Nikon 300 mm, anything below 1/250 was out of the question and 1/500 was a good idea. The whirring of the IS is a bit louder on the 300 than the 70-200.
When shooting action in AI Servo mode, the autofocus was as fast as on my shorter prime lenses.
In some forums, people swear by third party long lenses that they say produce as good an image at less than half the cost. All I can say is that their experience probably reflects the limitations of their skills rather than the comparability of the lenses.
With the 1.4X extender and my 1D Mark IIN's 1.3X FOVCF, this becomes a 546 mm lens. On a 1.6X FOVCF camera it's a whopping 672 mm.
Here are some other Canon alternatives and why you might want to go with them instead of the 300 f/2.8L IS:
- Canon 300 f/4L IS - less than half the price; it is lighter and has a built-in lens hood that doesn't require assembly; you lose a stop, and while a very sharp lens, not in same class at the f/2.8. good choice if you don't have the money for the f/2.8 or want to spread it among other lenses.
- Canon 400 f/2.8L IS - a longer reach without losing a stop but the price and weight increase significantly; not really hand-holdable; lens of choice for outdoor sports action.
- Canon 500 f/4L IS - if you want to shoot birds, you'll need the extra reach. It's cheaper than the 400 2.8 but a couple thousand more than the 300. Sharpness is comparable to the 300.
- Zoom lenses (70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS; 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS) Cheaper, lighter and more flexible but a serious compromise on image quality vs. 300 f/2.8L IS.
Best argument against the 300 f/2.8L is that you won't shoot often enough at that focal length or you want to buy more lenses for the money.
I'm saving my pennies now to add the 500 f/4L IS for bird and other wildlife distance shooting. It will take a few years.

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The high-performance L-series EF 300mm super-telephoto lens is a terrific choice for sports photographers and other long-distance users. Sports action requires a fast shutter speed and a long focal length. This lens easily complies thanks to its large maximum aperture--which supports a faster shutter speed--and its 300mm length. The lens also boasts a built-in, dual-mode Image Stabilizer (IS) function. This creates an equivalent shutter speed of up to four stops faster than the same size lens without an image stabilizer, letting you capture long distance hand-held shots far more assuredly. And thanks to the fluorite element and pair of UD-glass elements, the lens effectively corrects the chromatic aberrations that are prone to occur with telephoto lenses. Other features include the world's fastest autofocus (AF) speed with an improved Ring Ultrasonic Motor (USM) and new algorithms; a rugged, lightweight magnesium alloy lens barrel; and a detachable tripod collar that removes smoothly and locks securely. All Canon lenses carry a one-year warranty.
Specifications
Focal length: 300mm
Maximum aperture: f/2.8
Lens construction: 17 elements in 13 groups
Diagonal angle of view: 8 degrees at 15 feet
Focus adjustment: Inner focusing system with USM
Closest focusing distance: 8.2 feet
Filter size: 52mm drop-in
Dimensions: 5 inches in diameter and 9.9 inches long
Weight: 90 ounces
Warranty: 1 year


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Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD (Body Only) Review

Olympus Evolt E620 12.3MP Live MOS Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization and 2.7 inch Swivel LCD (Body Only)
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I've had the E-620 for a few weeks now and am quite pleased. Other options I considered were the Nikon D5000, Canon T1i & XSi, Panasonic G1, Sony A300 & A350, and Pentax K200D & K20D. Some comments with comparison notes:
1) SIZE & WEIGHT -- There's no point in having a camera that is so bulky that it doesn't get much use. Only the Panasonic G1 is smaller than the E-620 but not by much. There is a more dramatic difference in the size of the lenses, with Olympus being much smaller than all but Panasonic. Makes for a very compact outfit. For anyone used to the size of film SLRs, the E-620 is very similar. My wife also found it the most comfortable for her to hold.
2) BUILD QUALITY & HANDLING -- Very impressed with Olympus here. Solid, dense and with lots of sensibly placed buttons for direct access to settings. The other cameras had a less solid, plasticy feel, and their larger grips still weren't large enough for a comfortable pistol grip with my average size hands. The Sonys, in particular, had awkward button placement. The E-620 has a different style of grip where you hold the camera in the same way as old film SLRs, and is more appropriate to such a small camera. I carry the camera comfortably in my *left* hand, grasping the body and lens barrel with my fingers on the zoom ring; this frees my right hand from having to support the camera while working controls, and leaves my good hand open (I'm a righty).
3) LENSES -- The kit zooms from Olympus are reputed to be of higher quality than the others, as well as being more compact. So far I have been very impressed. I didn't want to buy a camera only to feel the kit lenses needed replacing; I'd rather spend on lenses that offer new capabilities, like fast primes or dedicated macro lenses. For anyone interesting in using legacy manual focus lenses, inexpensive adapters are available to attach virtually any MF SLR lens to Olympus bodies; used lenses can be quite inexpensive on eBay. Panasonic is limited by a very small range of lenses. For a two lens kit, the E-620 was the cheapest option.
4) IMAGE QUALITY -- I wanted to spend my time taking pictures, not fiddling with them in post-processing; Olympus has the best out-of-camera JPGs of the bunch (Canon and Pentax, in particular, fall short here). Although the smaller Olympus sensors are reputed to be a bit noisier, what noise there is is primarily luminance noise, giving images a film-like grain, rather than the colored blotches of chroma noise. I've found noise very well controlled through ISO1000, even with noise reduction set to LOW. For printing up through 8x10 and monitor display, I don't think noise is a concern up through ISO1600 (certainly with noise reduction set to standard). One caveat: be sure to keep gradation set at NORMAL (the default), not AUTO, unless you really need it; using AUTO gradation will noticeably increase noise.
5) IN BODY STABILIZATION -- I prefer in body stabilization to lens-based stabilization for two reasons: in body works with all lenses, and lenses can be more compact. You only carry one body but you are likely to carry multiple lenses, so it pays to keep them small.
6) LIVE VIEW & LCD -- Olympus has the best live view implementation (maybe tied with Sony) with quite quick autofocus. This is very important if you want anyone, e.g. my wife or random bystanders, who's used to compact cameras to use your SLR for snapshots or the like. The tilt & swivel LCD is very handy and seemed more natural than Nikon or Sony's implementations.Overall, I found the E-620 to be the best value for a two lens kit.Here are a few notes on the other cameras I considered:
Nikon D5000 -- Good build & handling, but a bit bulky. Live view isn't great. Much more expensive for a two lens kit than the Olympus.
Canon T1i -- Not impressed by the build quality, felt plasticy. Not comfortable for me to hold. Out of camera JPGs not so good. Inferior kit lenses. Much more expensive for a two lens kit than the Olympus.
Canon XSi -- Not impressed by the build quality, felt plasticy. Not comfortable for me to hold. Out of camera JPGs not so good. Bulkier than the Olympus. Inferior kit lenses.
Panasonic G1 -- Limited lens selection; will take legacy MF lenses but doesn't offer image stabilization with them since it isn't in the body. Plasticy. Not much smaller than the Olympus. More expensive than Olympus for a two lens kit.
Sony A300 & A350 -- Hated the button placement--ruled them out on that alone. Live view is very good though.
Pentax K200D & K20D -- Poor out of camera JPGs. Great handling and build quality. Short on features. Kit lenses aren't great. No live view / live view useless.

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Olympus E-620 Digital SLR Camera 262160 Digital SLR Cameras

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Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zoom Review

Canon PowerShot SD800 IS 7.1MP Digital Elph Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Image-Stabilized Optical Zoom
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In my opinion, this camera is worthy of a 5 star rating, one of the few I've ever given.
My experience with cameras in this class started with a Canon S-100, which I upgraded later to a Canon S-400, both of which proved to be excellent for my on-the-go photography needs. My only criticism with this class of cameras was that they lacked two features I really wanted:
1. wide angle lens
2. image stabilization
I guess the Canon folks read my mind with the introduction of the SD-800, and after reading a number of positive technical reviews for the camera on the web, I purchased one as an upgrade for my beloved S-400. I was particularly suspicious regarding image stabilization, since my only prior experience with a camera using this technology had been disappointing (Canon S-1, a larger 10x zoom model).
As might be expected with the advances in memory technology, the SD-800 takes movies at a higher resolutioni (640x480) than the S-400 (320x240) and has a higher maximum pixel count (7.1 vs 4.0). It also uses the smaller SD memory cards as opposed to the bulkier CF cards for the S-400, and the lithium battery pack has a different form factor (which means you can't reuse stuff from an earlier model).
What I consider to be the 2 real upgrade features for this camera, the wide angle lens and the image stabilization, are what truly distinguishes it from its competition. I've had this camera for about a month now and can happily report it is a significant advance over the S-400. The image stabilization is a dream. With the S-400 I had to rely on bracing the camera in many circumstances where with the SD-800 I can count on sharp images just holding it out, composing, and taking the shot. In a recent work session where my group had accumulated a great deal of writing on a wide white board along the side of a narrow conference room, I was able to capture in a single, sharply focused shot the entire board, something the S-400 would have taken 2 shots to achieve followed by a photo stitch. There is some distortion at the outer edges, but I personally don't see this as a drawback given the advantages to getting the whole image (after all you can crop the picture if the rather small amount of distortion truly bothers you).
What else? Well, the camera is lighter and more comfortably contoured than the S-400. It does retain the view finder (thank heavens ... there are simply circumstances where this is the only reasonable way to compose a shot). A single door is used for both memory and battery (vs. 2 doors on the S-400). As others have reported, the door has a flimsy feel, but my first camera in this line (the S-100) had a similar door and I never broke it. Anyway, the USB-2 picture download pretty much eliminates needing to pop out memory cards to get a faster download speed via a card reader. I did invest in a 4Gb high speed SD card since maximum movie length is 4Gb at 640x480, 30 frames per second, or about 25 minutes worth of pretty darn good movie taking. My experience to date is that with this level of capability and convenience I doubt I will every use my cam corder again for family movies.
Out of the box I found the controls and interface to be easier and more intuitive than the S-400. I have all the capabilities I had with the S-400, plus some "gee-whiz" features I've had fun with but I doubt I will use routinely (e.g., color swap). I can also recommend Canon's leather case for this camera. It provides an extremely easy way to carry the camera on your belt (it uses a belt loop, which I think is far superior to a belt clip). I was initially put off by the magnetic flap used with this case, but now agree it's a superior design (their earller cases used Velcro).

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CANON 1270B001 7.1 MEGAPIXEL POWERSHOT(R) SD800 IS DIGITAL CAMERA 7.1 MEGAPIXEL digital elph with elegant stainless steel perpetual curve design; wide-angle 28mm105mm (35mm equivalent) ;3.8x optical zoom with optical image stabilizer technology for steady, long-zoom shooting;digit(r) iii image processor with face detection technology for superior image quality, fast operation & low-power consumption;2.5" large, lcd monitor with wide viewing angle for easier on-camera viewing;ISO 1600 to reduce image blur & expand low-light shooting capability;improved movie mode with fast frame rate at 60 FPS QVGA (320 X 240) OR 30 FPS VGA (640 X 480);print/share button for easy direct printing & downloading plus id photo print & movie print with CANON(R) CP & SELPHY(TM) compact photo printers;includes powershot(r) sd800 is digital elph body, lithium battery pack NB-5L, battery charger CB-2LX, secure digital memory card(TM) SDC-16M, wrist strap WS-700, digital camera solution CD-ROM, USB interface cable IFC-400PCU, AV cable AVC-DC300 7.1 megapixel powershot(R) SD800 IS DIGITAL CAMERA

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Canon EOS Digital Lens Protective Wrap for EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS, 28-135mm IS, 50mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.8, 70-300mm IS, 75-300mm III, 55-250mm IS & 18-200mm IS Lenses Review

Canon EOS Digital Lens Protective Wrap for EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS, 28-135mm IS, 50mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.8, 70-300mm IS, 75-300mm III, 55-250mm IS and 18-200mm IS Lenses
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I got this as a lens wrap, and would you believe it, I rarely use it for that. I have lens bags that do well, but this doubles as a secure and soft pad to put filters and such as I am using them. Its an awesome and inexpensive add on that I just can live without, for the price.

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This Canon-branded digital lens wrap is an ideal solution for protecting your valuable lenses from scratches and dings, while also providing quick access to your lens. Made from heavy-duty materials, this wrap features a tough external lining, foam padding, and a soft interior that will keep your lens scratch-free. Four large velcro patches attach to any exposed interior lining, making this wrap easy to apply to a wide variety of lens sizes.

Dimensions: 14 x 14 inches (35.5 x 35.5 cm)

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Olympus Evolt E520 10MP Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization (Body Only) Review

Olympus Evolt E520 10MP Digital SLR Camera with Image Stabilization (Body Only)
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I am coming from an Olympus C-8080 and a Panasonic DMC-FZ18. Both of these are decent cameras, but not quite SLR quality. Also, the Panasonic is the worst macro camera I have owned. Since I was looking for more options with macro/closeup photography, I wanted a DSLR. My old SLR was an OM2n (back in the prehistoric camera days). I considered getting the E-510 or Nikon D60. Both are decent cameras, but after seeing pictures, decided to stick with Olympus and wait for the 520. I am glad I did!
I normally have a problem with a bit of camera shake and don't use a tripod. I just shot 400 pics and not one bit of camera shake! I was surprised to find out that I didn't even have Image stablization enabled. It is very easy to hold this camera steady. The lens and the viewfinder are crystal clear. I stongly suggest that you get the fastest CF card you can to record your pictures, and at least 4GB. I should tell you though, that I am shooting in both raw and fine jpeg format. This typically takes longer to write. The xd cards are too slow when shooting raw and fine jpeg. Another thing to make yourself aware of: Liveview does not seem perfected in any camera yet. It may take some time, but it is a bit bothersome, because there is a wait between recording photos when using Liveview. If you don't mind using the viewfinder,or waiting about 2 seconds between pictures, it's not a problem. Also, my battery compartment door seems to stick a bit. May need broken in, or it's just tight.
On the plus side: I have only had this camera 36 hours and already feel totally comfortable with it. I have heard people say that it's not user-friendly. I disagree with that statement IF: you have previously owned and used Olympus cameras. This camera isn't that foreign when coming from Olympus. Yes, it takes getting used to the buttons a bit, and my thumb does accidentally hit a button, but heck, I haven't even had the camera a couple of days. I also suggest that you buy the telephoto lens. Unless you shoot all wide-angle pictures, you will not be satisfied with this lens package. Regarding the Olympus lenses ... Primo, very good quality for a zoom/package deal. Much better quality than I expected. I like my pictures to be as crisp as possible, with the lowest noise (who doesn't?), so I have experimented with shutting noise reduction off and using software to reduce noise. The results were good in my test results. The scene modes of the camera are good. I haven't used them all yet (I had to put the camera down and get some sleep sometime in the past 36 hours), but am impressed with face detection on, macro, night modes. The flash is fairly strong. I have never had a built in flash, which doesn't give some type of red eye or blue eyes in dogs, this has not happened yet with the 520. Impressive, but I would suggest if doing closeup, that you diffuse the flash, or stand back a bit and zoom on the subject. REVISION: If you use the Macro nature mode, it seems to adjust the flash a bit. Also, if you like to experiment, play withe the "Vivid mode" a bit. I'm usually not a fan of modes, but in bright sunlight, my colors came out exactly as they should be.
If you are considering buying a more expensive camera and are NOT doing professional studio work, I would say; don't waste your money. Get this camera, because you will be impressed. If you are doing studio work, I would still tell you to get this camera, but get a better lens. After all, it's not always about the camera, but it is always about the lens. Anyone who has ever bought a no-name, camera-store "pushed on you" lens, knows what I am talking about.
When my next lens arrives, I will post more information under the "40-150mm Olympus zoom lens". Highly recommend this camera!
REVISION: Today, I received the adapter to let me use my old OM-2N lenses. I bought a generic one through ebay and it works just fine. I attached my old Tamron 90mm SP macro lens and began shooting. First, be aware that everything has to be done manually. This may not be practical if you need speed when focusing, unless you have mastered, manual focusing. I find that I shake the camera more with the heavier, manual lens, but with practice, I think that can be overcome. In other words, if you own the old OM lenses and don't have the money to get a new lens, buy the adapter and be prepared to make some adjustments.
If you have a flash/lighting system and a tripod, those adjustments will be lessened. I don't think I would do this for the life of the camera, but I would use the old OM lens (especially if you have a high quality one), until I could afford a new digital lens. I also have the 40-150mm digital lens (the one they give in the package deals), and am very impressed with the quality. I have posted some pictures, so you can get an idea of what this camera can do. If you scroll over the pictures, you will see the pictures I shot with the old OM-2N lens. I didn't make any revisions, so that you can get an idea of how the pictures come out of the camera (no photoshop).


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Olympus EVOLT E-520 Digital SLR Body.10MP, 2.7" HyperCrystal II LCD, 20 Scene select modes, Built-in Image Stabilization (IS 1, 2 & 3) in a portable body, Autofocus Live View, Face Detection, Shadow Adjustment Technology, Dust Reduction, Perfect Shot Preview, Truepic III, Wireless Flash, Underwater Housing.

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Canon 8x25 Image Stabilization Binoculars w/Case and Neck Strap Review

Canon 8x25 Image Stabilization Binoculars w/Case and Neck Strap
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They are, and they aren't, great binocs
What they are: as it says, the lightest and least expensive IS binoculars on the market (right now). The optics themselves are only merely very good, but - HAND HELD - with the IS activated, they allow me to read fine print about 20% closer than with my Leica 8x32 Ultras. On a rest, the Leicas are superior. It's the elimination of the jiggles - the 8x25 Canons don't give an image that's as bright and contrasty as those high dollar Leicas, but the steadier image more than makes up for that.
What they aren't: waterproof or armored. So have a care if you use them in conditions of rain or dust. They're much more complicated than simple binocs, with electric circuits inside, and the matter of reliability does come into consideration - but in the first year, they've survived life in the tote bag ,bouncing along dirt roads without a hiccup. Two more things: besides armoring and ruggedizing, Canon had to compromise _somewhere_ to make them this small. So, while the IS deals well with rapid human shaking. it doesn't seem to correct at all for slow motions. I imagine the engineers were forcd to leave off the sensors for slow motions, to fit everything else in. And, they use CR123 batteries, more expensive and harder to find in a pinch than AA batteries. Of course, if the batteries run dead, all your are left with is a functional set of very good, if a bit bulky, 8x25 binocs. What Canon has created is $300 binoculars that - hand held, with the IS active - outperform my high dollar Leica 8x32 Ultras. And, I imagine, the Nikon SE's, too. No kidding.

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Whether you are sitting in the nosebleed seats of a stadium or an opera house, with Canon's 8 x 25 IS binoculars you'll get an outstanding close-up view of the action. The binoculars are designed to fit perfectly in your hands and have a rubber coating for nonslip grip and protection from damage. The focus dial is center-mounted and the image stabilizer controls are easily accessible from either hand. Canon's optical image stabilization technology eliminates shake and reduces curvature of field. The image stabilizer operates with a CR123A Lithium battery. The lenses are coated with Super Spectra multicoating that improves image quality by maximizing contrast and minimizing color smear.
Image Stabilization and More With any high magnification binoculars, most users will experience frustrating image shake. Unless fixed to a tripod, image shake can render high magnification binoculars useless. Canon's IS technology is remarkably effective at eliminating this problem and is widely used by the television industry with Canon's professional broadcast quality video recording equipment. A special VAP (Vari-Angle Prism) corrective IS system sits between the objective lens group and the porro prism on each side of the binoculars. Within thousandths of a second of the binoculars being moved from their optical axis by vibrations, a detection system activates the IS mechanism. The VAP shape alters to refract or 'bend' the light path by precisely the right amount, thus fully compensating for the vibration. It is this essentially immediate response that effectively suppresses image shake.
Super Spectra CoatingA number of optical factors affect the brightness of an image, including the amount of incidental light that is reflected by the lens. An uncoated lens will refelect away as much as 8% of the incidentail light, significantly dimming the image. Canon's Super Spectra Coating prevents that reflection.
What do the numbers mean? 15x50? 8x25? The two numbers used to describe any pair of binoculars are their magnification - 8x, 12x, 15x and so on - and the diameter of their objective lenses - 25mm, 36mm, 50mm, and so on. The larger the first number is, the larger the object will appear to be in the objective lens. For instance, if you use a 10x lens and look at an object that is 100 yards away, it appears to be the same size as an object located just 10 yards away. The second number, the size of the objective lens, is important because the larger the objective lens, the more light it can admit for brighter, more detailed images, and the better suited they will be for lowlight situations. A look inside

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Heliopan 706746 67mm Circular Polarizer SH-PMC Review

Heliopan 706746 67mm Circular Polarizer SH-PMC
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I bought this Heliopan Circular polarizer for my new Canon 70-200 f4 L IS lens, and I love it. I have B & W filters for my other lenses, and they are very good quality, but on the recommendation of a friend, I decided to give the more expensive Heliopan a try. I love it; the feel, the quality, and especially the numbers on the side--that you use to dial in the polarizer to the degree you want, is a big plus.
I know that it's a little more expensive than B & W, and Hoya, but, as an engineer who deals with quality, & well built equipment every day, I think you too, will find it's worth the extra money.

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The Heliopan 67mm Circular Polarizer SH-PMC improves the color of the sky, (in distant pictures, mountain scenes, etc.) and reduces the bluish cast in landscapes. The darkest blue sky is achieved photographing objects at a 90° angle to the sun. In addition, polarizers enhance the color saturation of the scene by suppressing reflections from the subject's surface. Undesired reflections can largely be eliminated. The rim is calibrated to help in finding the proper setting when a through-the-lens preview is not available. Suitable for use with auto-focus cameras, cameras with through-the-lens metering and digital cameras.

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Canon PowerShot SX130IS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 12x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom with 3.0-Inch LCD Deluxe Bundle With 4GB SDHC memory card, DigPro Deluxe Camera Case, Camera & LCD Cleaning Kit Review

Canon PowerShot SX130IS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 12x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom with 3.0-Inch LCD Deluxe Bundle With 4GB SDHC memory card, DigPro Deluxe Camera Case, Camera and LCD Cleaning Kit
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This upgrade to the Canon sure shot is good due to the face recognition that automatically appears for images. Big image screen to view images, the settings are easy to select.
Only down side is a slow recovery for the flash, takes approximately 15 seconds to reset and that's not fun when you are trying to shoot quickly.
Otherwise, good beginner camera for those who want quality shots with a minimal amount of work.

Click Here to see more reviews about: Canon PowerShot SX130IS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 12x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom with 3.0-Inch LCD Deluxe Bundle With 4GB SDHC memory card, DigPro Deluxe Camera Case, Camera & LCD Cleaning Kit

Smart, sleek and creative, the PowerShot SX130 IS is the perfect companion to all your good times. Now you can capture every detail of special moments in crisp, stunning 720p HD - even while using the high-powered 12x Wide-Angle Optical Zoom! You'll record in stereo sound, then play back your videos instantly on you computer. The SX130 IS is all about creativity, with fun new scene modes like Miniature Effect for Movies, and Fisheye Effect for artistically distorted stills. While you're having fun creating, the camera's Smart Flash Exposure and advanced Smart AUTO systems are ensuring that every image is the best it can be. Add the DIGIC 4 Image Processor, 3? LCD, 12.1 Megapixels and Canon's Optical Image Stabilizer, and you've got the ideal camera for making the good times last.

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Click here for more information about Canon PowerShot SX130IS 12.1 MP Digital Camera with 12x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom with 3.0-Inch LCD Deluxe Bundle With 4GB SDHC memory card, DigPro Deluxe Camera Case, Camera & LCD Cleaning Kit