Showing posts with label benro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label benro. Show all posts

BENRO B SERIES Ballhead B-0 Review

BENRO B SERIES Ballhead B-0
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Have used the Benro BO-0 ballhead for couple of months. Very happy w/head. Did a lot of research between Dolica, Manfrotto, Vangaurd ballheads, on line and in stores. I had already purchased the Benro A-198EX tripod after a lot of research on the same tripods from the companies mentioned. I chose the Benro tripod even though there were no reviews for it yet & did not see it in any stores, it was a bit of a leap of faith, but based on the feature set & specs I ordered it. (Benro site has more info than amazon) After receiving it and seeing how well the tripod was made as well as how it operated etc, I had no problem w/choosing the Benro head as well (it had no reviews either). The head is smooth as silk through all its movements. The panning is great if needed, although w/the tripod it also has panning capability & it is very smooth and can be adjusted to be as stiff or loose as needed. One reason among others for choosing the Benro over others is that the actual ball is machined metal as opposed to phenolic resin, which is just a fancy name for fiberglass. I am tired of everything made of plastic. Some of the manfrotto heads in the price range of $150.00 had phenolic balls in them. I thought that given compression to lock the ball, that a metal ball would hold up better on clamping loads as opposed to resin. Also read some complaints for the balls as well as some tripods was that they got wet & started to get sticky with the plastic balls and some leg collars. Another complaint of some of the heads or tripods was the different size screws for mounting ballheads to tripod etc. Again Benro did a great job w/a long reversible double thickness screw (meaning it fit either 1/4" or 3/8" thread size setups) to handle any thread diameter head verses tripod. Read of a few people that had their camera's literally fall off tripods because of the bolt or head failure. I shoot w/Nikon 300s, & with 18-200mm zoom for example, and the whole setup mounted w/lens extended, it is easily held by the Benro head in any position. In fact the drag adjustment will hold head firmly even without locking the main lockdown knob. The 3 knobs on head are very comfortable rubber feel & turn w/a precise feel to them. I also prefer Benro's screw lockdown plate setup (swiss arca style) rather than the 2 separate procedures to release camera plate that some use- it just works without issue, when its locked it's not going anywhere, and when you want it off it unscrews as needed. It also has a nice rubber size & feel knob on it as well. Benro claims the Swiss Arca style plate will work as well on their head, but have not tried yet to confirm. If you research the various ways the Benro A-198EX tripod head mount works , you soon see that it can position the ballhead and camera setup in nearly any angle radially and in a 360 degree 3 dimensional sphere of direction if needed which is a very clever design, I thought. In any position the ballhead & camera setup ends up either horizontally, vertically, upside down and anything in between the ballhead holds the camera tight. It is rated by Benro to 17.6 lbs holding capacity. Can not find any downside to head yet.
Great product & design.

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BENRO B-0 ballheads offer manual drag control, smooth independent panning control, and positive locking knobs and quick release mounting plates. All housed in a precision-machined black anodized aluminum body. The Benro Universal Quick-Release System is designed to the same specifications as the Arca-Swiss system, and is also compatible with other similarly designed quick-release systems. Accurate 360-degree panoramas can be easily orchestrated using the graduated panning scale for accurate image alignment. The separate lock and drag adjustment knobs help to avoid confusion when working fast. Compatible with 0 series tripods like the Benro A-057M8.

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Benro TRAB169 Travel Angel Tripod Kit Review

Benro TRAB169 Travel Angel Tripod Kit
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This is my review of the A169M8 with B-0 Ballhead. I tested this with a D80, D40, Sigma 10-20, Sigma 50-150, Nikon 18-200, Nikon 18-55 and SB600 flash.
When lock downed properly, the tripod can handle the combined weight of a D80, Sigma 50-150 and Sb600 flash (about 3.8 lbs). I thumped it and do a light tripping motion to the legs and it supported the weight. It feels pretty rigid and subjectively, vibration seems to stop within the second.
I compared it with the Manfrotto 190XDB and I liked it better, the vibration seems less severe. The 190XDB vibrates like a ringing metal, while the A160M8 feels like its damping the vibration.
I do not have a heavier setup, so I do not know if it can hold the 17.5 lbs weight. I did try to slightly lean on the tripod with the camera on and the tripod can handle the weight.
While the tripod legs is pretty good, the ballhead is not very impressive. I have no experience with a ballhead, so my expectation might be too high. I will know better when I get my Markins Q3 traveller.
I have a light setup, my heaviest len, camera and flash combination is 3.8 lbs. With 3.8 lbs the tripod can be tighten so that creeping does not occur. However at this weight the tension control, does not work at all. If you take your hands off the camera, it will slowly creep.
With just the D80 and Sigma 50-150 (3 lbs), tension control works in all but the point down and pointing up position. In those position, creeping will occur.
With a D80 and Nikon 18-200 (2.7 lbs), the tension control works as long as the lens barrel is not full extended. With the lens fully extended creeps starts when you point the lens down.
With a D40 and Nikon 18-200 (2.3 lbs), the tension control works, when lens is fully extended, it will start creeping but not as badly as the above D80 setup.
With a D40 and Nikon 18-55 (1.73 lbs), tension control works in all direction.
With regards to panning, the ballhead does it smoothly with all the setup that I placed on it.
So summary if you want a ballhead that just lockdown your camera then this ballhead will do. Up to about 3 lbs, it was not difficult to position the head. Just remember that you have to lockdown, so that creep will not occur.
So is the $200+ worth the price? Probably not, the Tripod legs work great, and is extremely lightweight and portable, however ballhead is only suitable for the lightest load.
Its a shame that they do not sell just the A169M8, if you can wait I suggest you go for the C169M8 tripod legs and start looking for a better ballhead.
Additional comment on quick release plate for Benro B-0 ballhead. The quick release plate is not compatible with the Markins Q3 traveller. The Markins can hold it down, however when you attached it does not sit well on the head. Kind of scared that with a strong enough bump. The whole things will pull off.

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The Benro TRAB169 Travel Angel Magnesium Alloy Tripod with B-0 Ballhead is a professional-quality tripod that has lightweight, highest quality aluminum alloy legs for top performance at an economical price. In addition, magnesium is used for all die-cast parts. Despite its lower weight, magnesium is more rigid than aluminum, and has the same strength per volume. Travel Angel tripods are easy-to-carry so you\'ll want them with you at all times. Travel Angel\'s unique 180 degree foldover design allows them to be folded into a compact package that can easily fit into backpacks or luggage. However, when you need quick setup, excellent maximum height and a rigid, stable support, Benro Travel Angels are impressive performers!Travel Angel tripods feature individual leg angle adjustments, anti-rotation leg design, a reversible center column with spring loaded weight hook, anti dust and moisture rubber leg lock grips, and reversible 1/4"-20 to 3/8" mounting threads.LEG SECTIONS 5 MAXIMUM HEIGHT 58.5 NORMAL HEIGHT 51.3 FOLDED HEIGHT 14.1 LOAD CAPACITY 17.6

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Benro A-150EXU Digital Tripod Kit (Black) Review

Benro A-150EXU Digital Tripod Kit (Black)
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This is probably the best under 100 dollars, prosumer, entry-level, complete, ball-head tripod. It is full of good features that will allow you to do versatile things with your tripod. it is light-weight, compact (yet extends to a reasonable height), and comes with a carrying case which has a sling. everything seems pretty solid on this tripod. the ball head easily locks in solidly and stays where you put it. the legs pull out to three different, extended positions. (here i'm talking about the angle of the legs, not the telescoping length.) the first position requires no movement of the locking mechanism-you freely move between closed position and the first extended position. for the second extended position you must pull the locking mechanism out halfway and for the third extended position you must pull the locking mechanism all the way. the locking mechanism is not indexed, it pulls out perpendicular from its leg in a continuous fashion. the stem extension is relatively smooth with a bit of "catching" when you don't pull the stem straight up, but it locks in solidly. this same catching is experienced with the leg's telescoping length extension. to save money they only put a grip on one leg, that's okay. the only real complaint i have is that on one of the legs, the mechanism which hides and exposes the spikes on the ends of the legs is a bit "sticky" when you twist it. however, this is not so bad that i need to return it, and in fact, it has gotten better.
i highly recommend this to anyone who wants a tripod that will not fall apart on them as the cheep 15 dollar ones WILL. I have a "kodak" tripod (which is just some generic pan/tilt tripod with kodak's name printed on it) and the plastic has broken all over it. this tripod is mostly metal, and the plastic components seem solid (compared to my "kodak" tripod who's plastic is still breaking off).
again, this is very versatile for the price. please watch their video to see all the things it can do.
also, the plate on the ball head has rubber on it, so when you screw it on to you camera or binoculars it really sticks to it. i use this tripod for astronomical binoculars as well and it is great. because each legs moves independently, you can sit and lean back in a chair and put the binoculars right above you-great!
oh ya, it's made in china...probably the biggest con.

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Exceptionally compact and light in weight, the A-150EXU is a tripod that\'s definitely not light in features.Ideal for the digital photographer who recognizes the need for stability and sharp photos that only a tripod can deliver, it only weighs 2.2 lbs but can easily support cameras up to 4.4lbs.

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Pelican 1200 Case w/Foam (Black) Review

Pelican 1200 Case w/Foam (Black)
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I have owned a Pelican case for years. I cannot figure out why the O-ring is in the lid, and so flops loose when one tries to close the case. We replace the ring every year with an official Pelican O-ring, and it is always the same. Gravity just drops the ring out. It usually takes several tries to get the thing closed.
Second flaw is that the two snap closers are extremely tight in closing and in opening. I bang them with my fist to close them, and yank with all four fingers to get each one open. The sudden snap sends one's hand into sharp parts of the case, causing minor injuries (cuts).
I really think that simple engineering could make a better design. There is no reason that the O-ring should not fit in place by its own friction.
The boxes are mostly waterproof, but we tested ours several times, and found that some water did get in if the case was dropped into the water.
The O-ring must be new every year, and must be well greased with silicon grease. Warning: silicon grease is not generally available in back areas. Look in professional plumbing stores in urban regions. Be sure to test your case with weights equivalent to the items you wish to carry in it, to make sure that it will float if it goes overboard. For marine purposes, you need a brightly-colored case. A modest green or black one will likely be lost as soon as it goes into the water.
In spite of these defects, I have used my Pelican case to protect camera equipment when going by boat to remote islands. When you are on a small boat, you should pretty much assume that things will be receiving spray.

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Pelican Protector Cases are made with Copolymer Polypropylene, using an open cell core and solid wall construction, which is stronger and lighter that the competion.You can tell its a Pelican case by the distinctive "twin-ribbed" top surface.Stainless steel pins are used for hinges and handles.The new Double-Throw latches are much easier to open.

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Pelican 1510 Case with Foam (Black) Review

Pelican 1510 Case with Foam (Black)
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I purchased this case with foam to protect Nikon equipment used for wedding, location portraiture and sports photography. The Pelican cases are outstanding and are as good as equipment cases get. The waterproof neoprene O-ring gasket, pressure equalization valve and latch design set Pelican cases apart. The 1510's max-allowable carry-on size is a huge selling point if you have even a 1% chance of travel with expensive equipment - you want to keep it in your immediate proximity, not in some disgruntled and underpaid baggage handler's tender care. It's a bit on the heavy side if you're used to a soft-sided camera bag, but you would expect that from such a durable case.
The down side of this purchase for me was the "pluckable" foam (which you should cut and never pluck). The foam is a great concept and gives better protection (if cut with thick foam sections between items) than the alternative 1515 Padded Divider set Pelican sells. However, it's VERY unforgiving - once cut it's cut. (Tips on cutting foam are below). I recommend you SERIOUSLY consider purchase of an empty 1510 case (no foam) and additionally purchasing the 1515 Padded Divider set instead of the 1510 with pluckable block foam. This will give you much more flexibility and simplicity (unless you never plan on adding new equipment) while still protecting your equipment. For this reason I will eventually (probably very soon) trash the very expensive foam and will buy the 1515 divider set.
If you decide to stick with the foam, hey, it's your money, but here are some tips which will make you less dangerously postal after realizing your mistake:
0) The case comes with 4 foam layers, two thin ones for bottom and the lid, and two thicker ones with the grid of semi-pre-cut pluckable foam. I will be referring to "marking the foam" below. This is done in the thick layers with toothpicks. Gently work a toothpick in to the corner of where the little 1/2 inch foam blocks come together. I'll use the term "hole" for the space you cut out for your equipment. Notice I said cut not pluck. Use a serrated steak knife to gently saw through the semi-pre-cut pluckable blocks for the neatest appearance. Let's make this look professional, OK?
1) Take all the foam out and look at the bottom of the case. See those intruding wheel wells and the intruding handle well? (Pelican had to intrude those into the case's interior to make it fit the airline's luggage size requirements). You don't want your $2000 camera setting on that wheel well as it vibrates while rolling over asphalt or grouted tile. Use the thin bottom foam pad to mark these areas off on the thick pad and only put in shallow holes (no cutting into the bottom thick foam layer) for items such as a flash or 50mm lens in these areas. You don't want tall items like a camera body here! I cut out areas so the bottom layer of foam sits better on the wheel wells - optional, but now the top layer of foam doesn't ride up on these corners.
2) Plan on leaving at least 2 to 3 foam blocks (1" to 1.5") of space between all your equipment. Thin foam will be VERY flimsy and will tear when your equipment is being inserted into the holes.
3) Make sure you clearly mark both thick layers with toothpicks, masking tape or something similar so you always know which side is the top. This is way more important than it sounds.
4) Get all your equipment out and arrange it on one of the thick layers, and start marking the foam while arranging your equipment. Remember you may be buying more equipment, so keep your holes grouped fairly close and leave unused space as contiguous as possible. For this step you're looking at everything from above and thinking in 2 dimensions - width and depth. Just marking, no sawing yet...
5) Now for the 3rd dimension of height - measure to see if the equipment is taller than a single layer of thick foam. These holes will have to be extended through both layers.
6) OK, it's time to get your steak knife and get ready to start sawing. Try to saw out the holes in complete blocks and set them aside to store them. This will greatly aid in fixing problems later on. Tell little Johnny to get away from them - give him some bubble-wrap instead. Don't drink alcohol until you're finished. You'll probably need some when you are finished though - I suggest The Glenlevit & water on the rocks, but without the water...
7) Think you're done? Wrong. Now work your equipment all the way into the holes and get the cut-out blocks you set aside earlier. Put the cut-outs on top of the equipment so they are level and mark how deep they go down into the hole with a toothpick. Measure from the bottom to the toothpick with a ruler to determine how deep it inserted into the equipment-filled hole. Now transfer that measurement to the TOP of the block instead of the bottom. For instance, if the bottom of the block inserts .75" into the hole, mark off .75" from the TOP of the block. Now saw through that plane with your serrated knife, perpendicular to the semi-pre-cut cuts. Try to be as neat and even as possible. Still looks bad when you're done, right? Since you follow directions well and measured this from the top and not the bottom, the ugly side will not be visible when impressionable clients look into our custom camera case when the equipment is removed. Remove the equipment from the hole, take the top piece you cut with the ugly side down and insert it into the bottom of the hole, then reinsert the equipment, and - Hey Look! - It's flush with the top!
8) How many mistakes did you make? OK, now move all your equipment a safe distance away, like the next room. Go get some Elmer's glue and put tiny super-thin lines of glue on your mistake blocks, glue them back in very carefully inserting them from the bottom so we don't get any glue on the outside visible parts of the foam. Set the two patched thick foam layers on their tops so the glue you still managed to smear on the bottom doesn't stick to anything (a wet washcloth will help with cleaning up excess glue). Now wait until tomorrow for it to dry so you can go back to step 4. It is now safe to grace a few ice cubes with the gentle caress of some Glenlevit while you wait for tomorrow's adventure in foam cutting.
FINIS) Well, painful though it was, I promise it was less painful than if you would have wouldn't have followed my awesome instructions. Now that it's a couple of hours (or days) later and you're nerves are completely frazzled and that bottle of The Glenlevit is a number of inches lower than before you started, don't you wish you would have listened to my advice about purchasing an empty 1510 and the 1515 Padded Dividers?
;-{>

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Pelican Protector Cases are made with Copolymer Polypropylene, using an open cell core and solid wall construction, which is stronger and lighter that the competion. You can tell it's a Pelican case by the distinctive "twin-ribbed" top surface. Stainless steel pins are used for hinges and handles. The new Double-Throw latches are much easier to open.

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Polaroid 72" Photo / Video ProPod Tripod Includes Deluxe Tripod Carrying Case + Additional Quick Release Plate For Digital Cameras & Camcorders Review

Polaroid 72 Photo / Video ProPod Tripod Includes Deluxe Tripod Carrying Case + Additional Quick Release Plate For Digital Cameras and Camcorders
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This tripod is great! It's in a very reasonable price range and well worth every cent. Strong, durable and very sturdy. No shaking. I expect it to last me a long time before I spend money on a more expensive tripod.
I currently use it for a Canon Rebel. No assembly needed. I am over 6ft tall and it stands taller than me when fully extended. It's a great buy. No disappoitments here.

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Regardless if you're a casual photographer/videographer or a serious "prosumer" there's a Polaroid tripod designed with your needs in mind. That's because we design our tripods with intelligent in-demand features like fluid pan-head, braced center columns, all-terrain leg tips, dual levels, compact-footprints, ergonomically designed carry handles and foam grips-and everything else you'd expect from a tripod line inspired by over half a century of imaging innovation. And to ensure they're part of your "accessory arsenal" for the long term, we've crafted them from industrial grade, lightweight aluminum to ensure they always keep your valuable equipment on solid ground.No matter if you choose our ultra compact desktop models, our unique monopod or our ruggedized all terrain models, you'll immediately understand why Polaroid tripods are considered the ultimate in "classic image stabilization"Leg Diameter: 30mmNet Weight: 3.83 lbs. Folded Length: 28'"Extended Length: 72"

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Nikon D300s 12MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) Review

Nikon D300s 12MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera (Body Only)
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Hello everybody, My name is Daniel and I am about as serious as you can be and still be considered "amateur". I have been taking photos on SLR's since I was 10 years old on an old film Minolta and I bought my first DSLR (a Nikon D50) and since then I have owned everything from a base line Canon XSi all the way up to the the best camera I have ever handled... the D300s. I have operated the D3, D3s, D3x and the top of the line professional $10k Canons, and this is still my favorite ALL AROUND camera. So here is the break down to why I love this camera and I will give you a list of pros and cons. I love this camera for many reasons... [...]... not many people can justify spending another $4,000 (2-3 times the money) when they are looking to spend around $1,500- $2,000 for a good DSLR. So here is the benefits that I see to D300s over the other great Nikon models.
1. if you are into sports the D300s has a higher continuous frame rate than other models including the ever so popular full frame D700. With it's DX sensor it has a crop factor of 1.5 which means more bang for you buck when using a telephoto zoom lens. If you purchase the MB-D10 battery pack it will shoot at even higher speeds of 8fps when using continuous shooting and also allows for up to nearly 5,000 pictures to be taken on one charge (when upgraded battery is purchased). With 51 auto-focus and 3-D tracking you are almost guaranteed to have your subject in focus every time you take a picture. The D300s also features Active D Lighting which makes to so your pictures end up properly exposed so you don't end up with areas of under and over exposure which tend to be common in sports and in shadowy landscape photography
2. Freedom: although all Nikon DSLR's allow you to manually adjust your settings they are difficult to change until you get to the semi-pro D300 model. If you understand f-stops, DOF, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, focus points, light metering and other technical jargon and really want to experiment with all of these then a D300s is the camera for you. with shooting modes including: single, cont. low speed, high speed, timer, quiet, and mirror up mode this camera gives you all the freedom you could ever ask for.
3. Learning: this camera will make you learn the true in's and out's of photography. With the very accurate light meter it's not very hard to get the exposure right. No matter what your ISO and f stop is at.
4. User interface. With the dedicated live view and info button new to the D300s over the original D300 it cuts menu times down significantly however it no longer has the memory card hatch release switch. The D300s includes great features such as custom menus, easy to understand menus with the classic (?) button which will explain every camera function in easy to understand terms. On the fly changes include ISO, WB, Quality, shooting modes, a user adjusted fn button, AF/AE lock, light metering, and af adjustments. So the only limitations are your imagination. Selecting your focal point is as easy as looking in the viewfinder and pushing the directional button and watching the selector move around until you have exactly the right spot selected. With two selectors (one for shutter speed and one for f stop) it allows you to never have to take your eye out out of the viewfinder.
The bottom line (why you would choose this over any other Nikon DSLR):
why you'd choose this over the D90: 51point AF w/ 3D tracking, more fps, control of image adjustments, not much more money for a lot more freedom and creativity, contrast auto-focusing during movies, ability to utilize dual card slots (CF and SD), 14bit RAW, Active D Lighting.
Over the D700: full 12MP when using DX lenses rather than 5MP, more fps, $600-$1,000 less, movie mode, smaller pixels for more refinement at low ISO, 100% viewfinder coverage
Over the D3 and D3x: A ton of money, shooting speed, optimization of DX and FX lenses and movie mode, and built in flash, 100% viewfinder coverage which allows for better framing.
This is a great camera HOWEVER NOTE THE FOLLOWING!!!!!
The D700, D3,x,s have FX photo sensors which allow for a much bigger and brighter view finder, it also allows for a wider view (no crop factor instead of 1.5x like the DX) which means if you want more area in your pictures for such things as landscapes then the D700 or the D3 lineup maybe a better option because a 50mm lens in a DX camera looks the same as a 75mm lens on an FX camera.
The D700 and D3 lineup (minus the D3x) utilize the large FX sensor and still only have a 12MP capacity which means that the pixels are larger which allows for better depth of color, better definition in shadows, and better high ISO clarity. The D300 can go to extended ISO of 6400 however the image quality is poor at best when the D3 can shoot ISO 6400 all day long and look great. The D700 also does better at high ISOs than the D300 does because it has the same sensor as the D3 however the D3 still does better than the D700 at extreme ISOs. However also consider the fact that the smaller the image sensor the larger the depth of field so the D700 and the D3 are better for macro or portrait photography and the D300 will give you a larger DOF equivalent to about one f-stop.
THIS IS NOT A VIDEO CAMERA video is pretty good and the utilization of lenses is a great feature however if you want good video spend the money on a video camera. Even a Flip HD does better. The camera produces good video but it doesn't do well during panning if you plan on putting the camera on a tripod and filming then by all means its fine and with the option for an external mic to give you stereo sound is nice.
When it comes to portability, price, features, weight, usability, image adjustments ect. I personally believe it doesn't get any better I hope this review helped and I hope you get one too and really enjoy it as much as I have. This camera is the best of all worlds. I say save the money from an FX camera and buy a really nice lens or two or three for that matter. Anyway here is the camera of my dreams and hopefully the camera in your bag shortly I promise you'll love it, I know I do.
UPDATE: For all you HDR photographers look no further than the D300s you can easily create HDR photos by selecting "multiple exposures" and then setting up multi-step exposures for + or - EV per exposure and after the exposures are done voila you have a beautiful HDR photo. Keep in mind however: you will need a cable release (I recommend the MC-36) for the multiple exposures. OR take a few pictures at different exposures and overlay the photos in the in camera retouch menu and there you have it perfect HDR photos every time! Goodbye Photoshop (for HDR anyway)
The D300s and flash compatibility: I have noticed almost no one has talked about the fantastic flash compatibility with the D300s over many cameras. I figured it needed to be covered so here it goes: The D300s is a DREAM to work with when paired with any Nikon Speedlight Dynamic Lighting System. My favorite and most frequently used flash is the SB-600 Speedlight which can be wirelessly operated for NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE with the D300s, you just have to know what settings to change. Unlike the D3 which has to either have a hot shoe flash controller unit or an SB-800 ($900) the D300s can operate a nearly unlimited number of flashes wirelessly without any accessories. So if you are like so many other Nikon users and own an SB-600 just push and hold the "Zoom" and the "-" button at the same time until you get to custom menu and cycle through until you can adjust the squiggly Z shaped line and turn it to on and it defaults to channel 3 then either push and hold the "zoom" and "-" button to get out of the menu or just push the power button. Then go to the "Custom Setting Menu" (the pencil) on your D300s and change "e3" "flash cntrl for built-in flash" to the Commander mode and set to channel 3, and pop up your built in flash and there you go...ABSOLUTELY FREE WIRELESS FLASH with perfect exposure compensation every time using a $250 flash unit. Hope it helps someone I know it helped me so have fun and remember to change it back to TTL flash when you're done.
UPDATE #2: I have had a lot of question on why you would get this over a D300 and here you go the main reasons for buying the D300s over the D300 is the designated info button, and live view button, movie mode, designated okay button instead of one crappy directional selector, quiet mode AND dual memory card slots. It's also 7 months newer so you won't have an out dated camera as soon. It also has slightly different menus and new software for shooting modes including landscape, and portrait modes.

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Nikon D300S 12.3MP DX-Format CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Body Only) - 25464

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